On a severe Wednesday morning, we embarked on an expedition to Maria Island, situated off the east coast of Tasmania. The ferry from Triabunna was conspicuously devoid of visitors, save for us and a couple of scruffy rangers, setting the stage for an intimate and undisturbed exploration of this historically dark and ecologically profuse island.
Maria Island’s historical tapestry
Maria Island’s history is a complex tapestry with threads of convict heritage, industrial ambition, and agricultural endeavours. The island’s convict past is particularly compelling, with the Darlington Probation Station as a UNESCO World Heritage site. With its 14 well-preserved convict buildings and ruins, this site offers a poignant glimpse into the lives of those exiled here during the 19th century.
For me, this history is deeply personal. My ancestor, Francis Fitzmaurice, was an Irish convict transported to Tasmania in 1834. Walking through the remnants of the probation station, I felt a profound connection to him and the countless others who endured hardship on this remote island. The historical significance of these structures is a living testament to the resilience and fortitude of those who once inhabited them. I could feel them in my bones!
Day 1: Trek to French’s Farm
Our first day on Maria Island was dedicated to trekking to French’s Farm, an expedition that took us through a medley of landscapes teeming with wildlife. The island is a sanctuary for various species, including wombats, wallabies, kangaroos, and many bird species. The wombats were remarkably sociable, creating a unique human-to-wombat ratio likely unparalleled anywhere else in the Modern world. The walk to French’s Farm was predominantly along an easy-going road, offering spectacular vistas of the island’s rugged terrain and coastline. Despite the chill in the air, the temperature was not uncomfortably cold. The island’s wildlife added to the enchantment, with sightings of wallabies, kangaroos, and even some peculiar, small, furry creatures. Although we hoped to encounter the elusive Tasmanian Devils, they remained out of sight.
Night at French’s Farm
As night descended, the temperature plummeted. Fortunately, we found refuge in the old farmhouse at French’s Farm. We kept warm with a serviceable meal of 3-minute noodles. With its rustic gloom, the farmhouse provided a spooky sanctuary from the cold, allowing us to rest and recharge for the next day’s quest.
Day 2: Expedition to Haunted Bay
The following day, we embarked on an expedition to Haunted Bay, a 20-kilometer return journey along a narrow isthmus flanked by beaches on either side. The walk was spectacular, with the pristine sands and the rhythmic sound of the waves providing a serene backdrop. Once again, we were in complete solitude, with no other visitors. Haunted Bay lived up to its name, exuding an eerie yet captivating atmosphere. The rocks and cliffs were awe-inspiring, and I couldn’t shake the feeling that my ancestor, Francis Fitzmaurice, was accompanying me. The confluence of historical resonance and natural awesomeness created a genuinely haunting experience.
Another Night at French’s Farm
We returned to French’s Farm for another night of spookiness, sharing the space with the amiable wombats, wallabies, and Francis Fitzmaurice. The night was cold but not unbearable, and we were well-equipped to stay warm. The tranquillity of the farm, coupled with the presence of wildlife and ghosts, made for a shadowy evening.
Return to Darlington and Stay at the Penitentiary
On our final day, we returned to Darlington and stayed at the historic Penitentiary. The accommodation was spartan, with no electricity, but the roaring pot-belly stove provided ample warmth. The hardwood logs burned for hours, creating a cosy atmosphere as we once again dined on noodles. Staying in the Penitentiary, surrounded by the vestiges of the convict era, was a unique and humbling experience.
Departure
On Saturday morning, we boarded the ferry back to Triabunna, leaving the souls of Maria Island behind. The island drew us with its dark history, abundant wildlife, and lonely landscapes. As we chugged away, I felt a deep connection to its past and a newfound appreciation for this isolated island. Maria Island interleaves history and nature, offering a rare, haunting experience.
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